Then if your plug wires also have high resistance, this really can hurt spark energy. This corrosion creates resistance, which reduces the voltage that ends up reaching the spark plug. I believe that’s what we see as buildup on the edge of each terminal. But this corrosion shows up as aluminum oxide.
It just doesn’t rust like iron components. You may not realize it, but aluminum does corrode. This means there will be more resistance in the high tension circuit to the spark plugs. Aluminum does not conduct electricity nearly as efficiently as brass or copper. This is an indication of an inexpensive distributor cap. Our first clue is to look closely at the spark plug terminals on the inside of the cap. So we need to discover why this is occurring. When this happens regularly, the electrical energy oxidizes the metal in the mechanical advance, turning some of the iron into iron oxide particles that collect on the inside of the cap when thrown off from the rotor. If the rotor gap is too large, often the resistance from this large gap will be greater than the resistance created to jump down to the steel rotor screws and into the mechanical advance weights in the distributor. This material is iron oxide and is the result of misfires inside the cap from errant sparks inside the cap looking for a convenient ground path.Įlectricity will always follow the path of least resistance. Most often, I see this on the inside of HEI distributors, but it can be common on any distributor. But looking more closely, I’ve seen a dark brown material coating like this before, appearing like a very fine powder. Jeff Smith: At first glance, I thought the dark area on the cap was grease. Also notice the whitish aluminum oxide deposits on the spark plug wire terminals. Our guess is that the inside of his rotor was absolutely filled with this stuff. Notice the dark iron oxide area on the inside of the cap. One wire to ground and the other on the side of micro that goes to coil.This is the photo of the cap that W.D sent us with his question. You can check all these with a volt meter set to OHMS. In either F or R,Micro should have no groundīlack box micro with gas depressed, No ground So, in short, when trying to start your cart I have seen these get the wire pinched between them and short it out. Also, the black/white wire can get shorted out on 92-96 back where the tranny is close to the engine block. When the key is in the off position, it sends a ground to the coil. It must be in gear to remove the ground from the coil. If the micro is bad, it could send a ground to the coil. There is one micro that has the black/white wire coming off it. If it started, you need to check the micro in the black box. 011-.012 gap between coil and magnet when tightening the screws down that hold it. That is why they went to this style coil. I would replace coil with newer style 97-up only because in the future, trouble shooting will be simpler.
Sure, its a little more work but you are pretty much guaranteed it will work. If you have no access to a known good ignitor, I recommend buying the newer style coil with built in ignitor at this point only because if you are going to invest that kind of money on a part you don't know for sure is bad, it may be a waste of money.
You will just need to unplug the old ignitor to remove it from the system if you go with the new style coil. If it starts, replace ignitor or replace coil with new style 97-up with built in ignitor. The wire is usually brown in color and is directly under the limiter mounting bolt on the left side of the limiter. Remove the ground wire of the limiter and tape it up. If it starts, there is a bad micro in the black box or on the back of the F&R lever, key switch or short in the wire going back to the black box. If it still does not spark, go to step 2. Un plug the black/white wire from the limiter, down by the base of the dip stick, in this area. Here is a step by step guide to trouble shooting 92-96 Club Car with no spark. Thanks to Wass for writing this Troubleshooting Guide for a Club Car with no spark.
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